DIY - How to install Artificial Grass in your garden
We have seven steps for installing your artificial lawn. If you are struggling with an artificial grass choice we have created a post about our range and what everything is best for. Ensure you check that out so you don’t get grass less than ideal for you.
Check out our 7-step guide for installing artificial grass. Read through this, and you'll be an expert in laying fake grass in no time. Before we start installing the grass, let's take a look at what you will need!
What you will need:
Will Need:
Grass choice: (obviously) Sizes vary depending on the project we have lots of options.
Weed-proof Membrane: To not let weeds grow through the grass.
Edging: Composite or timber. If you have curves composite is ideal as it can bend.
Wheelbarrow: For transporting and distributing your aggregates.
Screws (or nails): Screw the grass into your edging.
Drill/Hammer: Depending if you are using screws or nails.
Power brush (or stiff brush): To brush up the fibres and give your garden life.
Stanley knife: Cutting in the artificial grass.
May Need:
Glue: Only if you are using more than one piece of grass and need to do a joint.
Joining Tape: This tape is what you spread the glue on, it isn't an adhesive.
Caulk gun: If you are using a tube and not a bucket of glue.
Trowel: For spreading the glue on the tape evenly.
Here is a simple overview of what needs to be done to install the artificial grass:
- Planning
- Dig off/ remove turf from the area
- Edge the area
- Base works and filling with then tamping the stone.
- Apply a weed membrane
- Lay your grass
- Finishing/ securing the grass (+gluing if needed) and bruising the lawn
Installation process:
Step One: The planning
Planning is the first step in any project, especially when installing a new artificial lawn. To make this easier take as many accurate measurements as you can and then accurately draw out your area. This will help you to work out the grass rolls that you need as well as the other materials for your edging and base works.
Measure the area you want to be artificial. From here you can work out what artificial grass you need to buy. Our artificial grass comes in 2 and 4-meter widths.
So you may need to do some maths to work out the width. You may have some waste, but this is how most rolls come. If you need 5 meters get a 4 and a 2, then cut off a meter and join. As for the length, rolls come up to 25m long and can be cut down in 0.5-meter increments.
You will also need to buy edging to go around the perimeter and the accessories detailed above.
Step Two: Dig off
Depending on how big your area is, you may be okay to use a shovel for the dig-off. However, if you have a large area, a turf cutter or a small digger may be required. Get in contact with a local landscaping company to rent these tools. It could be easier to get them to dig off the area for you. You will want to make sure that you go down far enough to give a void in the ground to lay your groundwork for the grass, this is usually a minimum 50mm-60mm depth from your finished level.
Step Three: Edging
For fitting your edging lay out the lengths around the perimeter of your area. To secure it into place you will need to hammer them into the ground and screw them into the edging. You will need a steak at least every meter along your edging. Whether you are using timber or composite edging you can use offcuts of these as your steaks, around 300-500mm long depending on how soft or hard the ground is. When setting out your edging make sure the top of the edging is 10mm down from your finished level of the grass. This 10mm gives enough room to hide the black backing of the artificial grass, whilst letting the grass sit at the correct level in your area.
Step Four: Base works
Step 4 is base works or groundwork for your artificial grass to be laid on. Start with your MOT stone infill the area and flatten it down using a whacker plate machine (these can be rented quite cheaply). You will want to rake out your stone so it is level with the top of your edging and then when it is compacted it will drop down, leaving room for your sand. Repeat the process with your grit sand or limestone sand. You will want to get a screeded to allow you to smooth out the sand as levelly as possible with your edging.
Doing this will give you a good solid base for laying your artificial grass. We recommend between 40-60mm of MOT and 10-30mm of grit sand depending on your area and its ground conditions.
Step Five: Weed Membrane
Step 5 is the easiest. Roll out your weed membrane over your finished base works and then nail or screw it into your edging. If you have strips ensure a bit of overlap and connect them with a bit of tape. This prevents any weeds that may work their way into the base over time from growing up through your artificial grass. Also, trim any overlapping membrane from the edges.
Step Six: laying the grass
Now you need to lay and cut your grass to shape.
Lay your grass over the area it will be covering and if you measure right, it should cover everything nicely. It's a good idea to roll out all of your grass rolls and get them into position before doing any cutting. You then need to cut in your artificial grass around the perimeter eliminating excess. Make sure to fold the grass back and cut through the backing, not through the top of the grass. On some edges you may need to fold the grass over your edging, hiding it.
Step Seven: Finishing the grass (and gluing if needed)
If you are happy with how the grass looks (and any joins line up). You can now screw or nail the grass into the edging, securing it in place. If you are fitting artificial grass directly over tarmac, you can screw directly into the tarmac.
If you have joins you have one extra thing to finish… the join. Joins are done with a 2 part process using joining tape and glue. Along the edge of the grass pieces either side of your join you will want to cut it as neatly as possible between the stitches of the grass. The goal is to get the gap between the 2 pieces of grass the same as the gap between the stitch lines to get it looking as seamless as possible. Once cut, the grass pieces back and roll out your joining tape, green side down. From here, spread glue over the tape neatly using your trowel and stick the grass as neatly and closely as possible.
For this give the glue at least 24 hours to dry before you brush the grass. You don’t want to rip up the join.
Now all you need to do is brush up the grass and you're done! When brushing, go against the pile of the grass which will bring the grass blades standing up.
Artificial Turf Installation FAQ's
Do I need a membrane?
100%, having a membrane, will ensure that no weeds will grow up through the grass. Keep in mind weeds still may pop up in the grass if it is not maintained, however, if you have membrane down these will only be surface weeds that pull out and won't be rooted into your base works.
How much would it be to get someone to install it for me?
Sadly, this question is impossible to answer in a blog post. There are so many factors that come into getting a company to install the grass. But it will be a lot more expensive we can tell you that.
How can I save money when installing the grass?
DON'T, other than buying a more budget-friendly option, if you buy cheap you often buy twice. If you cut corners on your artificial lawn installation, it won't last and you will have to get it re-done. In the long run, this will cost a lot more. Investing in good products and doing it properly will be the best way to save some money.
Is artificial grass no maintenance after I install it?
In short, no. You will still have to keep the area clean and pull anything that starts to grow. Along with brushing the area. This will make the lawn last a lot longer. Check out our post on looking after your artificial grass. In any case, send us a message and we may be able to assist you.
Should I use sand to fill in and support my grass?
You can do and a lot of companies will do this to support the grass and help it stand up. However, it is not always necessary, especially if you have a pet as it will start to smell very quickly. You can always brush your grass to make it look beautiful again, and save some money.
What type of sand is used in an artificial grass installation?
This a question that we are asked frequently. It can be difficult as different builders merchants and different regions name the same types of sand by different names. For an artificial grass installation you want to look for a coarse grit sand, limestone sand or granno/granite dust. These are a mixture of coarser and finer sand granules that interlock to form a firm service. The main thing you want to avoid is sharp sand, concerting sand and building sand. These are all too soft and are primarily a fine sand that wont compact and firm up, meaning it will move around over time.
What edging do I use?
We recommend using either a timber or composite edging that is staked into the ground around the perimeter and then the grass is screwed into it. this give a long lasting hidden edge that gives a strong fixing for the grass, whilst allowing you to unscrew the grass to set underneath if you ever needed to in the future. If you want a cheaper solution you can opt not to edge the area and nail the grass down.